October 2007
by D.B. Larousse photos by Oliver Yu Fotographie
The Lazy Goat features an eclectic variety of portions and pours to invite sampling and sharing. Chef Lindsay Autry was inspired to "broaden the definition" of Mediterranean cuisines to include North Africa, Spain, and Portugal as well as familiar fare from Greece and Italy. Fragrant spices like cumin and coriander mixed with herbs and peppers in the restaurant's kitchen give many dishes a delightful exotic flair, and tasting a variety of complementary wines is a particular treat.
To suggest a relaxing seaside motif, a blue panel entry screen with aquatic designs is repeated on menus; blue-and-silver mosaic tiles decorate the bar; and broken clocks along one wall emphasize their slogan of "time well wasted." If a Mediterranean cruise isn't on your itinerary this year, dine beside local waters with a splendid view of the Reedy River from many tables or from the patio beside a cascading fountain.
Our party of four began with an oval pizza from the wood-fired oven behind the bar, topped with just enough spicy crumbled fennel sausage and slightly sweet caramelized onions, flavors and textures that complemented each other well on a tasty though somewhat oily thin crust with nicely puffed edges. Other pizzas come with heirloom tomatoes and mozzarella, gorgonzola cheese and potatoes, or artichokes.
A mix-and-match selection of Spanish and Italian meats and cheeses includes salamis, sausage, and ham. Rosy dry-cured Spanish Serano was thinly sliced so it curled, less salty than similar variations and its light chewiness a fine match for a mild, semi-soft blue chees from Italy called gorgonzola dolce, and a tangy toothsome Spanish goat cheese - murcina al vino, or "the drunken goat." Roasted red peppers, eggplant, and tiny onions plus an a la carte bowl of pre-pitted olives added soft textures. Still, we would have preferred slices of their homemade bread to the pita triangles accompanying this fine first course.
Menu headings help diners navigate portion size. From the "graze and nibble" list, quail was a special treat, crispy skinned with tender meat atop thick housemade noodles and a lush mushroom scented sauce with a few slim asparagus tips tucked under and a lightly fried quail egg whimsically perched on top. Outstanding Moroccan lamb came in a sideways bowl with a dollop of cucumber yogurt to balance the flavorful sauce plus plantain slices added little more than crunch.
Cob corn lollipops were playful: inch-thick slices of corn-on-the-cob coated with aioli and speared on skewers, poking porcupine-like from a fish-shaped dish. Disappointing were small seminola-dusted artichokes, too chewy, and not flavorful when dipped in spicy lemon aioli. Variety from several cultures includes spanakopita, empanadas, garlic shrimp, mussels with ham, fried goat cheese, pastitsio (translated here as Greek mac'n'cheese), and bruschetta on housemad bread.
Five items are listed as "mains," four as "pastas." Although we did not sample the popular pancetta-wrapped grouper, we were delighted with bass-like branzini. This whole fish was deep fried, crisp and amusingly arranged in a slight "S" as if swimming off the plate, but kept in place bya pool of warm fennel-tomato sauce. We cut open this fish to find succulent white flakes infused with flavor from lemon slices, and swirled the fish in tangy citrus vinaigrette. Seafood is also featured in paella, served in a Mexican lava stone pestle. The rice absorbed the traditional tomato-herb-garlic-saffron sauce to an almost gummy state; shrimp, mussels, and sausage slices were good but sparse. Hanger steak arrived perfectly medium rare and sliced appropriately thin but a small serving for a main course. Roasted cornish hen had a luscious crisp coating, spicy and satisfying, accompanied by transluscent couscous bubbles with grapes and a hint of basil, lightly toasted almonds, and a few Turkish apricots for a contemporary Middle Eastern flair. We did not taste any of the "main"pastas, but the noodles with our quail were good enough to recommend to others.
Desserts have an imaginative twist, such as the trio of small crunchy cones filles with house-made ice creams, sherbets, or granites. Goatcake is two small cupcakes, their cardamom flavor subtle, frosted with a creamy, rich and luscious dark chocolate. Also on the list are truffle-like tiramisu poppers, banana walnut baklava, and a combination of cheesecakes and wine shooters.
Italian, Spanish, and French wines complement the menu well. Prices are mostly moderate, and the chance to choose small (250ml) or large (500ml) glasses means you can sample several at a meal.
A few light items would reinforce the Lazy Goat's them, for instance, salads and vegetables as offered at many Mediterranean restaurants. Some "graze and nibble" items might be offered as either a small or main plate with appropriate sides like roasted peppers, squashes, and eggplants.
Although the restaurant encourages conversation witha blue-seated chair at each table - whoever sits there gets a blue coaster saying "lead your table" with inspiration and conversation - the large open room can be loud. Service is friendly, informal, upbeat; special dietary needs can be arranged with an advance call as aca hadnicap access (general entry requires using stairs); and the menus are made of paper that diners can carry home as a souvenier. As the newest member of local Table 301 group, The Lazy Goat offers casual, cheerful waterside dining with an intriguing menu from an imaginative chef.
The Lazy Goat
170 RiverPlace
Greenville, SC 29601
864-679-5299
http://www.thelazygoat.com
Mon-Thurs 5 to 10 p.m.
Fri-Sat 5 to 11 p.m.
Bars from 4 p.m.